成都草堂拜谒"诗圣"

  多少年来一直想去杜甫草堂这个文学圣地拜谒“诗圣”,然而由于方方面面的原因未能成行。直到最近,当我浪迹天涯几十年之后回到四川故乡,终于了结这个夙愿。一大早起来,便兴冲冲驱车向草堂赶去。   从四川崇州驱车80公里来到杜甫草堂,首先映入眼帘的是一条弯弯环环宛若玉带的溪流。溪边“风含翠筱娟娟净,雨红蕖冉冉香”。呵,这就是浣花溪,一个多么美丽而幽静的地方!   在浣花溪莹莹绿水的映带下,一堵粉壁青瓦的巨型照壁耸立眼前,让人一看,一股庄严肃穆之气油然而生。正门匾额上笔力遒劲的“草堂”两字,是清代康熙皇帝第十七子果亲王允礼的手笔。步入正门,但见园内古木参天、竹树掩映,穿过绿树丛中的几座亭台楼榭,只见一座敞厅式的建筑露出了身影,这就是位于草堂中轴线上的大廨。“廨”,旧时称为官署,亦即古时官吏的办公所在。之所以将这里命名为廨,主要是考虑到杜甫“穷年忧黎元”,其爱国忧民之心至死不渝。他虽然没当过几天官,但死后总该有个办公之处。出于象征意义,清代在重修草堂时终于将这里起名为“大廨”,此中内涵非常清楚地隐喻着人们对这位爱国诗人的良好心愿,大廨内的楹联多得令人数不胜数、目不暇接。特别值得一提的是,老一辈无产阶级革命家叶剑英在此撰有书联:“杜陵落笔伤豺虎,爱国孤薄斗牛。”张爱萍书集杜句所写的联为:“挺身艰难际,张目视寇仇。”高度评价了杜甫爱国忧民的思想情怀和其鲜明的现实主义精神。出大廨几十步,就来到草堂的主厅――“诗史堂”,堂名冠为“诗史”,乃源于孟的《本书诗》中说的一段话:“杜(甫)逢(安)禄山之难,流离陇蜀。毕陈于诗,推见至隐,殆无遗事,故当时号为‘诗史’。”这是说杜甫身逢“安史之乱”,颠沛流离,居无定所,日子过得异常艰辛。他将自己看到的社会现实、所感所叹的民怨国恨、所思所想的辅君中兴等全部用诗歌的形式记载下来,致使后人读其诗犹如读到了一部活生生的唐朝兴衰史。   建国以后新中国领导人毛泽东、邓小平等均访问过草堂,尤其是邓小平五次到草堂访问,他说:“没到过草堂,就等于没到过成都。”故诗史堂留下诸多领导人和名人撰写的对联。朱德1957年参观草堂时写下的“草堂留后世,诗圣著千秋。”充分体现了一位伟大的革命家对杜甫的崇敬和对草堂胜迹的热爱。堂内还有陈毅书集杜句联“新松恨不高千尺,恶竹应须斩万竿”。以及郭沫若撰写的书联:“世上疮痍,诗中圣哲;民间疾苦,笔底波澜。”前者表达了陈老总大无畏的英雄气概和嫉恶如仇的性格;后者则对杜诗忧国忧民的思想内容作了高度的概括。   诗史堂之后的“柴门”是草堂内的第四重建筑,门前清溪潺潺流过,小小石拱桥横跨溪上,看上去颇有“小桥流水人家”的意味。“柴门”原本是杜甫营建草堂时所造的院门,因简朴低矮而得名。不过柴门虽然简朴却给诗人平添了许多生活方面的乐趣:“花径不曾缘客扫,蓬门(即柴门)今始为君开。”(《客至》),可知诗人在这里平日闭门幽居,只有当朋友来访时才打开柴门迎客;“白沙翠竹江村暮,相送柴门月色新。”(《南邻》),从这首诗看得出诗人与邻居关系十分融洽,每将客人送别于柴门时总是恋恋不舍。今日的柴门与其他建筑相比,相对而言实在是简朴得不能再简朴,但比这当年诗人所建的柴门却又堂皇富丽得多。门前匾额“柴门”两字为著名画家潘天寿先生所书;门柱上的对联“万丈光芒,信有文章惊海内;千年艳慕,犹劳车马驻江干。”是明人何宇度集用杜句所撰。正因为杜甫给我们留下了成就极高、震动海内外的不朽篇章,千百年来不知赢得了多少中外名流的尊崇和倾慕。园内杜甫画像石刻、草堂石刻、杜甫诗集版本、研究杜甫的各种史料以及历代名家的墨宝字画极为丰富,馆藏数量达数千件之多。   穿过园内小径,见竹树丛中隐隐露出一座竹篱笆墙、茅草顶、黄泥涂壁穿逗式结构的典型农居,农居的周围是菜园、药圃和水塘,整个建筑古朴中透露出浓浓的文化色彩,这就是1997年2月落成的茅屋景区,其设计布局完全是根据杜诗“青江一曲抱春流,长夏江村事事幽。”(《江村》)“舍南舍北皆春水,但见群鸥日日来。”(《客至》)等句意开凿而成的写意景点。从茅屋的主景向西望去,有山石飞瀑与之呼应,这是根据杜诗“窗含西岭千秋雪”的意境而营造的“西岭”。   就在我怀着浓浓的游兴看着这幢农居之时,突然听见吱丫的一声门响,此时忽见身着唐装、头扎纶巾的杜甫从茅屋内走了出来,他指袖捋须,踱着方步来到屋檐下似在沉思,再朝里探头一看,又忽见杜夫人正端坐床头缝补衣物,他们的一双儿女正在对棋嬉戏……呵,此情此景好似穿越历史的时空梦回唐朝!   其实这只是杜甫草堂“人日”活动安排的对杜甫漂泊成都时那种宁静生活的情景演绎。接着,主办方启动了造雪机,霎时漫天瑞雪纷纷扬扬、飘飘洒洒地降落下来,在古典音乐的衬托下,忽见我国的著名学者、诗人苏叔阳缓步登场,用他那极富磁性的嗓音、抑扬顿挫、声情并茂地朗诵了杜甫的诗篇,把杜甫诗歌中的“魂”诠释得淋漓尽致;接着来自各文艺团体的舞蹈家们又分别以冬、春、夏、秋四季场景交替来演绎杜甫的思、悲、忧、愤人生经历,让人们思绪万千……   杜甫祖籍湖北襄阳(今襄樊市),祖父杜审言是武则天时代的缮部员外郎,是一位与沈期、宋之问齐名的诗人;父亲杜闲曾任兖州司马,奉天县令。正统的儒家文化教养加之追求仕途事业和书香门第铸就了杜甫的人生轨迹。杜甫自幼聪慧,七岁能诗,十四五岁便“出游翰墨场”,与文士们交游酬唱,20岁起游历各地,饱览了祖国的壮丽河山,公元746年,杜甫西入长安想得到施展抱负的机会,他相信自己能“致君尧舜上,再使风俗淳”。可惜官场险恶,滞留长安一再碰壁,后来战乱的漩涡把他卷入到颠沛流离的人群中,使他深深了解到统治阶级的腐化和丑恶嘴脸,亲眼目睹了老百姓的贫困和艰辛,心头充满了忧国忧民思想。公元755年“安史之乱”爆发后,杜甫逃往凤翔投奔肃宗,拜为左拾遗,后因上疏申救房触怒肃宗被贬华州。杜甫于公元759年冬暮弃官西行,流落蜀中,在浣花溪畔搭建茅屋而居,总算有了个栖身之所。公元760年至765年流亡四川三台阆中一带,后出峡东下,公元770年病逝于湘江舟中,年仅59岁。他一生为我们留下了1400多首绝妙华章,对中国文学的发展产生了深远的影响。      Pilgrimage to the Thatched Cottage   By Gan Aidan      I had long since wanted to make my pilgrimage to Du Fu's Thatched Cottage in Chengdu, where the great poet of the Tang Dynasty (618-907) resided in his self-imposed exile during the chaotic years of a revolt. My dream did not come true until recently when I visited my home in Sichuan province after spending decades of years traveling foot-loose.   I had the yearning for a reason. Du Fu is one of China's greatest poets. Born into a scholars' family, he was able to compose poems at 7. He began to tour the country at 20. Like his grandfather and father, who were both government officials, the young Du Fu harbored political ambitions and wanted a place to display his talents for the country. In 746 he came to Chang'an, capital of the dynasty. But his dreams were spoiled there. In 755 a rebellion broke out. He followed the emperor to flee and later joined the emperor. He was appointed to a minor position at the court in exile. But he was demoted after he presented a memorial that angered the emperor. In 759 he resigned from office and began his westward journey to Sichuan. These years were hard for the poet. He drifted homeless from place to place. His poems recorded the social upheaval of the times, portrayed the dark social realities, and his stubborn ambition for getting the country back to prosperity. For this reason, the poet is known to later generations as the sage of poetry and poet historian, the only one with such a posthumous fame in an empire of poetry over thousands of years. His works of that time depict the vicissitudes before and during those tumultuous years of the Tang Dynasty.After four years' sojourn at the thatched cottage, Du left Sichuan Province and journeyed eastward on the Yangtze River as the revolt drew painfully to a close. In 770 he died in a boat on the Xiang River at age 59. In his lifetime the poet composed more than 1,400 brilliant poems. They have been regarded as the timeless treasure of the Chinese literature and have greatly influenced poets ever since.

  Though still called the thatched cottage after all the centuries, the site is now home to a magnificent memorial structure in a large garden. The memorial structure is so magnificent that it has four rows of halls connected by walled courtyards. The latest large-scale refurbishment program was done in 1997. The front gate has an inscription written in calligraphy by a prince in the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911). The memorial was rebuilt like an official residence. Though Du Fu was only a minor official in the government for a short while, he was given a large office on the memorial compound in honor of his thwarted dedication to working for the country.After a restoration program in the Qing Dynasty, the office was officially named as a government office.   After the People's Republic of China was founded in 1949, state leaders including Mao Zedong and Deng Xiaoping visited the Thatched Cottage on various occasions. Today, many inscriptions by modern top leaders can be seen there. The cottage serves as a repository of materials concerning the all-time poet, including stone carvings, poetry collections in various editions, academic studies on the poet and his art contribution, numerous inscriptions and paintings by literary and art celebrities over centuries. Pieces collected and stored at the memorial amount to thousands.   The Thatched Cottage itself is hidden behind bamboos and trees in one corner of the garden accessible by a small path. The cottage, redesigned and built in 1997 based on descriptions in the poet's poems, is surrounded by a vegetable plot, an herb plot, and a pound. On the west side of the cottage is a rockery with a waterfall, another add-on based on one of his most famous poems. In 759, Du Fu built a two-room bunkhouse topped with a thatch.   My visit that day coincided with a grand celebration of the poet's life and poetry at the cottage. A scholar of national renown recited some of Du Fu's poems. Dancers interpreted the poet's life and emotions through scenes of the four seasons.       (Translated by David)

  多少年来一直想去杜甫草堂这个文学圣地拜谒“诗圣”,然而由于方方面面的原因未能成行。直到最近,当我浪迹天涯几十年之后回到四川故乡,终于了结这个夙愿。一大早起来,便兴冲冲驱车向草堂赶去。   从四川崇州驱车80公里来到杜甫草堂,首先映入眼帘的是一条弯弯环环宛若玉带的溪流。溪边“风含翠筱娟娟净,雨红蕖冉冉香”。呵,这就是浣花溪,一个多么美丽而幽静的地方!   在浣花溪莹莹绿水的映带下,一堵粉壁青瓦的巨型照壁耸立眼前,让人一看,一股庄严肃穆之气油然而生。正门匾额上笔力遒劲的“草堂”两字,是清代康熙皇帝第十七子果亲王允礼的手笔。步入正门,但见园内古木参天、竹树掩映,穿过绿树丛中的几座亭台楼榭,只见一座敞厅式的建筑露出了身影,这就是位于草堂中轴线上的大廨。“廨”,旧时称为官署,亦即古时官吏的办公所在。之所以将这里命名为廨,主要是考虑到杜甫“穷年忧黎元”,其爱国忧民之心至死不渝。他虽然没当过几天官,但死后总该有个办公之处。出于象征意义,清代在重修草堂时终于将这里起名为“大廨”,此中内涵非常清楚地隐喻着人们对这位爱国诗人的良好心愿,大廨内的楹联多得令人数不胜数、目不暇接。特别值得一提的是,老一辈无产阶级革命家叶剑英在此撰有书联:“杜陵落笔伤豺虎,爱国孤薄斗牛。”张爱萍书集杜句所写的联为:“挺身艰难际,张目视寇仇。”高度评价了杜甫爱国忧民的思想情怀和其鲜明的现实主义精神。出大廨几十步,就来到草堂的主厅――“诗史堂”,堂名冠为“诗史”,乃源于孟的《本书诗》中说的一段话:“杜(甫)逢(安)禄山之难,流离陇蜀。毕陈于诗,推见至隐,殆无遗事,故当时号为‘诗史’。”这是说杜甫身逢“安史之乱”,颠沛流离,居无定所,日子过得异常艰辛。他将自己看到的社会现实、所感所叹的民怨国恨、所思所想的辅君中兴等全部用诗歌的形式记载下来,致使后人读其诗犹如读到了一部活生生的唐朝兴衰史。   建国以后新中国领导人毛泽东、邓小平等均访问过草堂,尤其是邓小平五次到草堂访问,他说:“没到过草堂,就等于没到过成都。”故诗史堂留下诸多领导人和名人撰写的对联。朱德1957年参观草堂时写下的“草堂留后世,诗圣著千秋。”充分体现了一位伟大的革命家对杜甫的崇敬和对草堂胜迹的热爱。堂内还有陈毅书集杜句联“新松恨不高千尺,恶竹应须斩万竿”。以及郭沫若撰写的书联:“世上疮痍,诗中圣哲;民间疾苦,笔底波澜。”前者表达了陈老总大无畏的英雄气概和嫉恶如仇的性格;后者则对杜诗忧国忧民的思想内容作了高度的概括。   诗史堂之后的“柴门”是草堂内的第四重建筑,门前清溪潺潺流过,小小石拱桥横跨溪上,看上去颇有“小桥流水人家”的意味。“柴门”原本是杜甫营建草堂时所造的院门,因简朴低矮而得名。不过柴门虽然简朴却给诗人平添了许多生活方面的乐趣:“花径不曾缘客扫,蓬门(即柴门)今始为君开。”(《客至》),可知诗人在这里平日闭门幽居,只有当朋友来访时才打开柴门迎客;“白沙翠竹江村暮,相送柴门月色新。”(《南邻》),从这首诗看得出诗人与邻居关系十分融洽,每将客人送别于柴门时总是恋恋不舍。今日的柴门与其他建筑相比,相对而言实在是简朴得不能再简朴,但比这当年诗人所建的柴门却又堂皇富丽得多。门前匾额“柴门”两字为著名画家潘天寿先生所书;门柱上的对联“万丈光芒,信有文章惊海内;千年艳慕,犹劳车马驻江干。”是明人何宇度集用杜句所撰。正因为杜甫给我们留下了成就极高、震动海内外的不朽篇章,千百年来不知赢得了多少中外名流的尊崇和倾慕。园内杜甫画像石刻、草堂石刻、杜甫诗集版本、研究杜甫的各种史料以及历代名家的墨宝字画极为丰富,馆藏数量达数千件之多。   穿过园内小径,见竹树丛中隐隐露出一座竹篱笆墙、茅草顶、黄泥涂壁穿逗式结构的典型农居,农居的周围是菜园、药圃和水塘,整个建筑古朴中透露出浓浓的文化色彩,这就是1997年2月落成的茅屋景区,其设计布局完全是根据杜诗“青江一曲抱春流,长夏江村事事幽。”(《江村》)“舍南舍北皆春水,但见群鸥日日来。”(《客至》)等句意开凿而成的写意景点。从茅屋的主景向西望去,有山石飞瀑与之呼应,这是根据杜诗“窗含西岭千秋雪”的意境而营造的“西岭”。   就在我怀着浓浓的游兴看着这幢农居之时,突然听见吱丫的一声门响,此时忽见身着唐装、头扎纶巾的杜甫从茅屋内走了出来,他指袖捋须,踱着方步来到屋檐下似在沉思,再朝里探头一看,又忽见杜夫人正端坐床头缝补衣物,他们的一双儿女正在对棋嬉戏……呵,此情此景好似穿越历史的时空梦回唐朝!   其实这只是杜甫草堂“人日”活动安排的对杜甫漂泊成都时那种宁静生活的情景演绎。接着,主办方启动了造雪机,霎时漫天瑞雪纷纷扬扬、飘飘洒洒地降落下来,在古典音乐的衬托下,忽见我国的著名学者、诗人苏叔阳缓步登场,用他那极富磁性的嗓音、抑扬顿挫、声情并茂地朗诵了杜甫的诗篇,把杜甫诗歌中的“魂”诠释得淋漓尽致;接着来自各文艺团体的舞蹈家们又分别以冬、春、夏、秋四季场景交替来演绎杜甫的思、悲、忧、愤人生经历,让人们思绪万千……   杜甫祖籍湖北襄阳(今襄樊市),祖父杜审言是武则天时代的缮部员外郎,是一位与沈期、宋之问齐名的诗人;父亲杜闲曾任兖州司马,奉天县令。正统的儒家文化教养加之追求仕途事业和书香门第铸就了杜甫的人生轨迹。杜甫自幼聪慧,七岁能诗,十四五岁便“出游翰墨场”,与文士们交游酬唱,20岁起游历各地,饱览了祖国的壮丽河山,公元746年,杜甫西入长安想得到施展抱负的机会,他相信自己能“致君尧舜上,再使风俗淳”。可惜官场险恶,滞留长安一再碰壁,后来战乱的漩涡把他卷入到颠沛流离的人群中,使他深深了解到统治阶级的腐化和丑恶嘴脸,亲眼目睹了老百姓的贫困和艰辛,心头充满了忧国忧民思想。公元755年“安史之乱”爆发后,杜甫逃往凤翔投奔肃宗,拜为左拾遗,后因上疏申救房触怒肃宗被贬华州。杜甫于公元759年冬暮弃官西行,流落蜀中,在浣花溪畔搭建茅屋而居,总算有了个栖身之所。公元760年至765年流亡四川三台阆中一带,后出峡东下,公元770年病逝于湘江舟中,年仅59岁。他一生为我们留下了1400多首绝妙华章,对中国文学的发展产生了深远的影响。      Pilgrimage to the Thatched Cottage   By Gan Aidan      I had long since wanted to make my pilgrimage to Du Fu's Thatched Cottage in Chengdu, where the great poet of the Tang Dynasty (618-907) resided in his self-imposed exile during the chaotic years of a revolt. My dream did not come true until recently when I visited my home in Sichuan province after spending decades of years traveling foot-loose.   I had the yearning for a reason. Du Fu is one of China's greatest poets. Born into a scholars' family, he was able to compose poems at 7. He began to tour the country at 20. Like his grandfather and father, who were both government officials, the young Du Fu harbored political ambitions and wanted a place to display his talents for the country. In 746 he came to Chang'an, capital of the dynasty. But his dreams were spoiled there. In 755 a rebellion broke out. He followed the emperor to flee and later joined the emperor. He was appointed to a minor position at the court in exile. But he was demoted after he presented a memorial that angered the emperor. In 759 he resigned from office and began his westward journey to Sichuan. These years were hard for the poet. He drifted homeless from place to place. His poems recorded the social upheaval of the times, portrayed the dark social realities, and his stubborn ambition for getting the country back to prosperity. For this reason, the poet is known to later generations as the sage of poetry and poet historian, the only one with such a posthumous fame in an empire of poetry over thousands of years. His works of that time depict the vicissitudes before and during those tumultuous years of the Tang Dynasty.After four years' sojourn at the thatched cottage, Du left Sichuan Province and journeyed eastward on the Yangtze River as the revolt drew painfully to a close. In 770 he died in a boat on the Xiang River at age 59. In his lifetime the poet composed more than 1,400 brilliant poems. They have been regarded as the timeless treasure of the Chinese literature and have greatly influenced poets ever since.

  Though still called the thatched cottage after all the centuries, the site is now home to a magnificent memorial structure in a large garden. The memorial structure is so magnificent that it has four rows of halls connected by walled courtyards. The latest large-scale refurbishment program was done in 1997. The front gate has an inscription written in calligraphy by a prince in the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911). The memorial was rebuilt like an official residence. Though Du Fu was only a minor official in the government for a short while, he was given a large office on the memorial compound in honor of his thwarted dedication to working for the country.After a restoration program in the Qing Dynasty, the office was officially named as a government office.   After the People's Republic of China was founded in 1949, state leaders including Mao Zedong and Deng Xiaoping visited the Thatched Cottage on various occasions. Today, many inscriptions by modern top leaders can be seen there. The cottage serves as a repository of materials concerning the all-time poet, including stone carvings, poetry collections in various editions, academic studies on the poet and his art contribution, numerous inscriptions and paintings by literary and art celebrities over centuries. Pieces collected and stored at the memorial amount to thousands.   The Thatched Cottage itself is hidden behind bamboos and trees in one corner of the garden accessible by a small path. The cottage, redesigned and built in 1997 based on descriptions in the poet's poems, is surrounded by a vegetable plot, an herb plot, and a pound. On the west side of the cottage is a rockery with a waterfall, another add-on based on one of his most famous poems. In 759, Du Fu built a two-room bunkhouse topped with a thatch.   My visit that day coincided with a grand celebration of the poet's life and poetry at the cottage. A scholar of national renown recited some of Du Fu's poems. Dancers interpreted the poet's life and emotions through scenes of the four seasons.       (Translated by David)


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